So, most people I know would recommend against taking a two year old to Cambodia. Aside from all the weird diseases -most of them involving something called a stomach fluke, which swims up you but won't swim out..., Cambodia's notoriously corrupt government with a taste for violence and the amount of weirdos, who visit from the west for illegal purposes, I was a bit scared. Okay, fairly paranoid..but I figured, if not now, then when....
So, off we went on our month's tour of Asia, I had packed not only enough food for the child to survive on, during our entire stay in Cambodia but a whole closet of medicines I had never heard of...including a plug-in insect repellant (I could have done with that growing up in pre-climate controlled florida!), and lots of things called anti-fungal creme, anti-inflammatory fungal creme and anti-insecticide viral anti-fungal inflammation creme. I also packed a wonderful anti-mosquito spray called 'Off' with Deet -with which, we smoothered ourselves my entire childhood in Florida but it mysteriously seems to have become illegal in the west since then. Something about nucleur fusion and unwanted excess toes...Obviously, that didn't stop them from making it available to the masses in Hong Kong as well as Cambodia.
However, when our plane arrives in the new Siem Reap airport, which is one of the most charming one-room airports I've ever seen, designed in the traditional Khmer style..I think, let's see, let's see what's on the other side of the world. A cabbie picks us up and is incredibly chatty. At one point, he asks our first names and foolishly we respond. This is against my better judgement, but I figure we'll never see the guy again. However,as we end our journey, we start to get the old rub-down about how hard it is for cabbies and they need money,etc. My husband has read in the guide book that a cabbie in Siem Reap makes more than the average Cambodian's month salary on average in half a week and they are NOTORIOUS for giving tourists aggressive sob stories. Being a jaded big city kid, I am pretty easy at throwing this back at people in an equally sweet way...but when we enter the hotel and he starts demanding our schedule, then keeps hanging around the hotel and the final straw, which filled my soul with fear, was his waiting for one of the lobby clerks to take my childs photo with his mobile phone. Suddenly, I was riding the wave of hormonal fear all mom's have: why did I take my kid here, why did we give him so much information, do you think he could pay off the clerks, what is this place really?
Sadly, in a place like Cambodia, these aren't overreactions. Cambodia has not only a highly corrupt government but a huge problem with child related crime.
On the other hand, everyone in our hotel is incredibly nice and friendly and they all seem to think we are traveling with a celebrity, which is how they treat all babies, but especially white babies. I did relax as I realized that this is how Asians are with children. At first, one tries to be nice (as I always try to remember as a traveller you are an ambassador of your country. How I am is how they may think all Americans are...how many Americans are they meeting here?), but it does get tiresome...people keep trying to walk off with your child in the restaurant, pinching the child's arms, taking phone photos of the child. At the beginning of the trip, she didn't know how to say her name or age, but she knew by the second week because you just get used to everyone asking...
Also, we had arrived shortly after the 'Khmer New Year' Water festival and to the Khmer, who are incredibly superstitious, touching a baby - especially a white baby is good luck in the new year. I mention the white baby, because one thinks 'how sad, your babies are so lovely- reclaim your own culture'...but I begin to understand the white skin symbolizes beauty not only because it may be of what is currently the dominant culture...but because it symbolizes a culture with widespread healthcare, relative equal rights, stable (relatively) uncorrupt governments and economic prosperity.
The other funny thing that happens, is that at the beginning of the trip, one thinks: how am I going to teach my child not to trust strangers...when they keep coming up to her, giving her candy, etc. but after a while...so many people didn't really care about if she was interested or not, it was just 'hey, baby, you look at me!' or 'hello, little baby, hello, you take my hand' and after a while, my child's response was 'I don't know you/ you don't own me' attitude. Sadly, I think the lack of interest in what the child's reaction- I suppose, the objectification of her...is a sad reflection on the lack of individual rights in so many Asian countries today.
Anyway, back to my tales...thank Goodness, we never saw the cabdriver again. Our hotel, Le Meridien Angkor was absolute luxury. It may be one of the most luxurious hotels in which I've stayed. Sitting out by the pool at dusk, as the attendant took our drinks, I noticed that everyone else seemed to be French and I do sort of wonder, if this is what it's like in all those French African Colonies in which they holiday. Cote D'Ivoire, Senegal & Sierra Leone all have compounds set up for tourists or French Expats, and they have a very luxurious life but never 'mix with the locals' since it can be dangerous and the same with all the wildlife and insects...much like the jungles of Angkor Wat used to be quite dangerous.
It is only in this moment, that I realize Cambodia is the first really third world country I've visited. Locals work in this hotel. They can not afford to stay in it...even in Vietnam, Thailand, Morrocco, there are always locals with money, who come back and can afford the hotels..but not here. There is a distinctive class system. Three classes: Cambodians, Cambodian government officials, and foreigners.
The next morning we woke up and had a lovely (real western-style) brunch. After I grab our bag of old toys and clothes, which we give to one of the five orphanages in town. Americans, French, Belgians, Germans and Dutch each sponsor one. There is also one, which Mother Theresa sponsored somewhere outside of Angkor Wat. I'd really recommend doing this for any traveller. Giving your clothes to the local thrift shop, just helps them pay the people, who work there..but in this case, you're making a direct difference on a grass roots level.
Unfortunately, by noon, the weather is absolutely MELTING. I have never experienced anything this hot in my whole life in Florida or our other trips throughout Asia or Africa! MELTING! So, we attempt to have lunch. We chose our restaurant, Champneys, because it had fans and foreigners. For $5 at Champneys, you can have a delicious lunch and a drink and it seems to be one of the best gigs in town.
After tuk-tuking it back to our hotel, we sign up for an afternoon tour of Angkor Wat complex with a sunset on --, which seems to be the typical tourist program. I was so hot, that I had to break into the gingerbiscuits, we'd bought to keep the baby from getting dehydrated. The baby, despite being in Deat sprayed footed onesy (as I was notified, it'd keep away malaria and heat stroke) has turned the color of a small beat but miraculously has slept through most of the tour - despite being in my husband's back babycarrier!
There are thousand of Cambodians thronged around Angkor Wat. It is a national holiday and they often come here for picnics and even, worship. Angkor Wat is still considered a working temple...which is interesting, since as one walks through, one sees that it has the icons of a pantheon of Gods, from which to choose.
First there were lots of Male Gods, who seemed to require a lot of dancing. Then there were some Gods, who were into cows and hunting...then came all of the Hindu Gods and as if it weren't full enough already, Buddha is still in residence. Actually, from what I understand there are Hindus, who also worship here...but the Budhists are fairly dominant and have even started building adjacent wats for specialty prayers.
Angkor Wat itself is indeed one of the wonders of the world. You just don't realize how strange and overwhelming it is until you stand in front of it.
Built under King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century, it was only ever used as a temple complex. There are four beautiful libraries in the main complex, a man-made reflecting pool, interior irrigations systems and many many very small steps. The small steps are theme throughout Asian (particularly Budhist) Temples, to remind one that the path to heaven is not easy. Using the irrigation and an extended hallway system, the interior of the complex is kept surprisingly cool compared to the scorching exterior. Cambodians like the Thai are originally descended from India and Angkor Wat's complex is very similar to Indian architecture. Some architects say it is influenced by the temples of Tamil Nadu, India. There is also a impressive man-made lake which surrounds the complex in a perfect square, which one can only see from very high points. Much like the pyramids of Giza, all of Angkor Wat and the surrounding temple complexes were built by hand. Our Cambodian tour guide mentions that there was 'a little' slave labour from conquered neighboring nations, there were many Cambodians, who 'voluntarily' worked on the building of Angkor Wat. Hmmm, voluntarily carrying large slabs of rock in the sheltering heat for 8-12 hours a day...
He also notifies us that the French act like they 'discovered' Angkor Wat but the Cambodians always knew it was there. I remember the story of the Winged Victory almost being thrown from the Isle of Samothrace and the Viscount deMarcellus buying it for the equivalent of $24, but choose not to share this story or the query of what would have happened to the Marbles with out Lord Elgin. After all, I don't have a colonialist history, I'm just a objective observer. Our guide is however, very nice and has an easy and friendly laugh. He is also wearing jeans, but I am glad to say he did atleast perspire a small amount during our walk!
In Medieval times, the entire Angkor Park area is estimated to have been roughly the size of modern day Los Angeles...except that a large amount of that area is now re-grown jungle, much of it purposely rebuilt by the Japanese to protect the World Heritage Site's environment.
It's like walking through some sort of lego set labyrinth...a set within a set within a set. There are so many inner sanctums and then suddenly you're at the back of everything and have to walk back around....and it's only during that long walk that one realizes just how LARGE this place is!
As we pass the coconut salesmen and the kids diving into the moat, we are accosted by what seems like the rest of the cambodian population harrassing us to buy maps, dodgy bottled water, bananas and postcards. We get into the car ---ahhh AIR CONDITIONING ---only to find out that we are now heading to 'the hard part': a climb up -- to see the aerial view from Phnom Bakheng, another temple in the park.
I look over and my husband, who is now redder than a ripe tomato, is adjusting the babycarrier onto his back and preparing for the long haul...and in this heat, it is a long haul. We pass the protectorate lion sculptures and wind our way up through what appears to be re-growing tropical jungle. I am surprised how many of these plants grow in Florida. When we finally make it to the top...we see awaiting us....more very very steep stairs. At this point, I turn to say 'Shall I just go and take photos so you can see?' but am happily surprised to hear my husband, true blue stiff-upper lip Englishman say,'well, we've come this far...I'm not stopping now' Despite the fact that he is drenched in sweat, beatred and carrying a toddler on his back.
Here's a picture of the view, I'm not sure if it was worth it...but once you finally get to Angkor Wat, it's so overwhelming you don't want to leave. You want to take in as much as you can and I think that's the real reason we climbed up the hill rather than head back to the hotel. The steps going downhill are so incredibly steep, I find myself proudly yelling 'that's MY husband' as people actually start taking pictures of my husband and the baby, because they've never seen anyone with a babycarrier hike up and down Phnom Bakheng.
Thank goodness, there are elephant rides to take you downhill and a very polite elephant accomodates our two-year old by taking the bananas she's offered and then subtly sweeping them underfoot rather than eating them (probably I suppose because tourists have paid all day to give her bananas).
Day Two: Angkor Tom and Bayon Temple.
What a beautiful day. The wind whips through the back of our tuk-tuk. One can actually hire bikes, taxis, hiking tours and in some areas elephants to see Angkor Wat complex but I adore the tuk-tuk ride on the ancient uncrowded boulevards. Our tuk-tuk driver has to make a quick stop for petrol, before we go inside and here's a photo of a Cambodian style petrol station. You may notice that it looks more like a corner hotdog stand but those bottles of Jim Bean and Johnny Walker are actually full of petrol. It is so expensive compared to what Cambodians earn that it is sold by the litre (literally).
As we whizz pass a monk-tuk, we begin to see the huge heads awaiting us at Bayonne Temple..
No one knows, who the head is actually of...some say, it has the third eye and elongated earlobes of the Buddh. Some say, it shows the representation of the many heads of Brahma and there are some, who believe it is actually a a depiction of Jayavarman VII, since he was the rather ego-maniacal dictator self declared 'God-King' (oh, but weren't they all), who created the complex.
The outer wall of the complex is full of amazing detailed bass reliefs, retelling tales of daily life, the afterlife and the many victorious battles of the Khmer.
We also see the occasional Apsara dancer sculpture or fresco but most of the reliefs in Angkor Tom are tributary rather than decorative and one gets a strange sense of ...darkness and power and one feels like this is where 'The Man Who Would be King' was written.
It is odd, walking around..one feels someone's always got an eye on you...
As the temperature starts to climb (it is now 11 a.m.), we hop in the tuk-tuk and take a turn around the temple complex, whizzing past the old as well as the new temples, and all of the tourist shacks that have popped up.
Finally, we come to my favorite part of the trip, for which I've been waiting. Ta Phrom or the ruins there-of. Ta Phrom is the one temple that everyone has agreed to let go, so that people can see how it used to look as ruins but also what would happen if it weren't for all the conservation...and it appeals to me, greatly. There's something of the whole Victorian-Romantic ruins in the jungle thing, it has going for it..that makes one wonder what it must have been like for French Explorer Henri Mouhot to discover the area or all the boughts with malaria, jungle rats, snakes, hostile locals, ancient curses that anyone visiting before our sterilized age of technology and air travel, when he wrote:
One of these temples—a rival to that of Solomon, and erected by some ancient Michelangelo —might take an honourable place beside our most beautiful buildings. It is grander than anything left to us by Greece or Rome, and presents a sad contrast to the state of barbarism in which the nation is now plunged."
